Trying to make a decision on hardtops, we picked up a CJ top for $75 without a liftgate but then found out the liftgates rust out and finding a good one was out of the question. They do make fiberglass ones but am told they are flimsy and fit poorly. So we contemplated on a Wrangler but couldn't find a nice one in our price range (read that as cheap) but got a second chance offer on this one on Ebay for $275. The only problem with a Wrangler top with a CJ tailgate is that the gate opens up from the inside and the liftgate can't be opened up with the gate shut. Sort of backed myself into a corner. (I like corners, makes me think of ways to get out.) We will definitely go with the Wrangler because of bigger windows, and all glass lift gate with wiper. Unfortunately we didn't score one with a rear defroster. The fit to the body is great, a testament to Shell Valley http://www.shellvalley.com/ The tailgate shouldn't be that big of a problem fitting an outside activated latching system. I'll keep looking for some kind of flush mounted latch during my trips thru the junkyard.

Frame ties, If you got a fiberglass body don't leave home without them. I have seen these thing in alot of variations, some good and not so good. Now I don't proclaim to be an expert, or posses any mechanical engineering knowledge, but some how I don't think a section of 1 1/2" pipe welded to the side of the frame is going to do much to save your ass in the event of a roll over. This is my kids life on the line. After much thought on this subject we decided to go with 2 x 3 x 1/4 wall rectangular tubing. Maybe a little overkill but I don't think so. I took an adjustable bevel gauge to get the angles and transferred them to cardboard, made some adjustments then transferred these to a piece of 2 x 3 wood. Kept tweaking the angles on my radial arm saw then finally put it to metal. All I did was cut a v shaped section at the bend, not cutting thru the one wall, that way I wouldn't have to rely totally on my weld. Just heat up the area of the wall and bend close and weld the 3 remaining sides. The decision was made to notch the end to fit to the top outer corner of the frame, that way any force would have to be transferred down and in on the frame rails, thus literally having to collapse the frame rails rather than a shear force if they were fastened to the outside of the frame. I would rather have the frame take the force and work for me versus a weld to the side of the frame rail. The passenger side tie also had to be clearanced for the fuel filler hoses, so I simply cut a section of 1 1/2 pipe and layed it in the corner of the tie and weld. 1/4" plates are then welded to the top of the ties and bolt directly into the rear roll bar mounts. Hopefully these will never have to be tested, but at least give us piece of mind knowing we went above and beyond.

Been awhile since the last post, but we are pecking away at it. It is the little details that take the time but will be worth it in the long run, if for anything else, personal satisfaction. Anyhow we decided to tuck the exhaust up a bit higher so that means notching out the rear crossmember, again for that muscle car era look. It really didn't take that much time other than measuring several times before cutting. Something anybody with a drill press and welder could do. We decided to go with 2 1/2" exhaust diameter so we got some 3" diameter pipe, cut it to the length that the crossmember is thick then sliced it a little less than half. Used a hole saw the same diameter as the outside of the pipe. Since the pilot drill on the hole saw would not be engaged in the crossmember during cutting you must securely (and I do mean securely, otherwise it will kick back) clamp the crossmember to the drill press table. Use a slow rpm, a light feed and plenty of cutting oil. Once that was cut thru simply lay the section of pipe in and weld. Finish it off with some grinding and you end up with a personal custom touch, not really noticeable to the casual observer but somebody looking over the details of your rig will appreciate. I guess sort of a wow factor. Not that this thing with a 2" lift really needed the extra ground clearance with tucked up exhaust, it was just something we wanted to do and it was easy.