We figured while we were working on the windshield frame, it would be a good time to fab in the defroster vents since it was a Wrangler (YJ) frame. Previously I had attempted to use the YJ defroster vent setup by making a wire frame that mimicked the CJ dash pad, which would have been labor intensive, then discovering that the YJ duct work would not clear the gauges that were sunk into the dash panel. Needless to say the whole defroster ducting had to be re-engineered which was covered in a previous post. Any how vents were sourced from Omix-Ada part number 17907.04 or 5750340k. These are listed for a
1978 to 1986 CJ at a cost of $24.99. Nice quality. Slots were marked and cut using a cut off wheel in a die grinder then finished off with a carbide burr, also in a die grinder. Screwed into place using #8 x 1/2" truss phillips self drilling screws.
Friday, July 22, 2016
Jeffrey had previously ordered a CJ dash pad from Omix-Ada part number DMC-5760458 in black. Real nice quality for offshore. It would have no problem replacing an original using factory hole locations. We didn't have to worry about that with this being a new construction. We started with marking centerlines on the cowl and pad to get good location. I should also mention at this time that the centerlines were also used to cut the defroster holes in the bottom of the YJ windshield frame, along with then mounting the cowl to windshield rubber seal. Since we had to lay the frame down
to install the pad we took care of two things. The bent top edge of the dash panel where it wraps up over the cowl had to be addressed by using a plate that doubled as a washer for the screw that fastens the square tubing defroster duct and as a spacer underneath the dash pad tab. It worked out nice that the 1/8" wall square tubing could be threaded for the dash mounting tabs versus trying to hold a nut from underneath. These plates are the same thickness as the lip on the dash panel. Washers were also cut with a flat to butt up against the same panel. Dash pad mounting was pretty well straight forward using 10-32 socket button head screws for the upper tabs and upholstery sheet metal screws for the bottom.
to install the pad we took care of two things. The bent top edge of the dash panel where it wraps up over the cowl had to be addressed by using a plate that doubled as a washer for the screw that fastens the square tubing defroster duct and as a spacer underneath the dash pad tab. It worked out nice that the 1/8" wall square tubing could be threaded for the dash mounting tabs versus trying to hold a nut from underneath. These plates are the same thickness as the lip on the dash panel. Washers were also cut with a flat to butt up against the same panel. Dash pad mounting was pretty well straight forward using 10-32 socket button head screws for the upper tabs and upholstery sheet metal screws for the bottom.