Going to break the dash fabrication up into several posts for the sake of viewing comfort. We will start off with the actual dash panel fabrication. The original dash was rusted and orientation of gauges and other controls were not to our satisfaction for what we had planned. Also the center console would be cut into the bottom of the dash. So a clean slate was needed. Original sheet metal was 19 ga. around .041 thickness. We opted for 18 ga. cold rolled, which came in at a slightly thicker .047. This would give a bit more rigidity and also welder friendly. I picked up a 1' x 5' pc. for the dash and a 1' x 2' for the console for $25.00 at a local welding shop. The perimeter was layed out and cut with a jig saw because of not having access to a sheer. Dykem layout fluid was applied and areas that would be bent were scribed. We decided to give the bottom corners a radius where the ends met the kick panel for a finished look. Now all we needed was a sheet metal brake. This is where belonging to a club becomes beneficial. We belong to the Keystone Garage Club http://keystonegarageclub.com/ that include some very talented

 members. Members that might have some equipment that you don't. One member, Gary Shiley of Shiley Fabrication Inc. http://www.shileyfabrication.com/ was one such member. He graciously allowed me to bring my sheet metal to his shop and bend it for me on his brake. Nice guy, I only hope that I can do something for him someday. Holes were then drilled for mounting, matching location of the original dash, then the steering column hole shape and location transferred from the original as well and cut. The opening for the center console was cut and angled to match the console. Radius pieces were then formed for the bottom corners along with triangular plates for the console area

and welded into place. Since I only have a stick welder a 3/32 6011 rod was used at 60 amp, with alternating stitch welds to eliminate war-page, then ground smooth. So far we have $35.00 invested which also includes the piece for the console and a bit of personalization, which comes in way under the $150.00 for a blank dash panel. Next will be defroster outlets cut in since we are going with a Wrangler defroster set up which exits through the face of the dash compared to a CJ that uses the windshield frame as the defroster duct, that will always lead to a rusted out windshield frame from condinsation. We hope to remedy this by combining the Wrangler outlet with a fabricated CJ dash pad. Needless to say

we have are work cut out for us there.

Anybody run into a problem in locating a GM tilt column, floor shift and headlight dimmer on the floor. Somebody is grabbing them out of the junkyards. If you find anything with a clutch pedal the column is gone. We had a shift tilt column from a J10 that we were using for mockup but were keeping our eye open for a floor shift column. Since no luck we had heard of people cutting off the shifter boss and filling it in with various materials. We were afraid of it eventually cracking out. Did some searching on different forums and through an Oldsmobile forum they made mention of Speedway Motors http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search.html?query=910-32600

offering a column shift cover part #910-32600 specifically for this purpose to hide the cut off shifter boss. Cost $31.02 to my door. It's really made for a non tilt column but will work for a tilt as well according to their very helpful staff. Fits great. OK that takes care of the shifter bowl. Since the ignition switch cover also has the shift quadrant assembly mounted to the cover, via an "L" shaped hole, that also had to be filled in. Couldn't find any after market mod for that. The cover is made from cast aluminum, so a piece of sheet aluminum was cut to shape, formed to the same radius as the cover, then pressed into place. I originally tried to spot

weld with an aluminum rod but the cast was not co-operating. So I backed off before I ruined it and broke out the JB Weld. Smeared that on the inside and outside then ground it smooth. The inside can be left heavy for strength without any worry of it interfering with the function of the column. A column shift steering column has a shift tube that runs the whole length right down to the bottom bearing. This must be retained to hold the bottom bearing to support the lower shaft. Just cut off the linkage lever that connects to the shift linkage that goes to the transmission. After assembly, and when the shift tube is in the park position, it can be secured to the outer

column jacket tube by drilling and tapping for a 10 -32 button head screw. Speaking of assembly, I won't go into depth, that's what assembly manuals are for, but one word of caution. And this was the only snag I ran into due to lack of experience. There is a "lock sector tension spring" (craziest thing you ever wanted to look at) fastened to a plastic gear at the opposite end of the ignition switch. Well wouldn't you know I broke it. Well I surely didn't have one of those in my "might use it some day box" so internet to the rescue. Led me to Steering Column Services.

http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/jeep/spring01-locking-pin-spring.php Part # spring01 cost $4.85

OK so I order 2 of them. Well somehow 2nd day air got checked (by me, not them) and 2 springs cost me $78.18 flown to my door in 2 days from Utah. I did find the mistake the next day after seeing 5 emails and 1 phone message from them asking if I wanted to indeed ship it this method, but it was already shipped. I have to give them credit for trying. Lesson learned? don't be in a hurry, it will cost you. We ordered up a new turn signal switch from Advanced Auto part #S3233 for around $25. Ours was cracked. Interesting thing non of these switches come with the gray wire for the shift quadrant bulb. Not that we would be using it since we eliminated

that part but if you needed it for your application it would be necessary to remove the connector from your old switch and install it in the new one. We did, because we can use this wire to run to the floor shift quadrant display. The whole conversion should have cost us under $60.00 compared to $200.00 or more for a rebuild. I say should have if it wouldn't have been for my screw ups.