Throttle cable was next on things to do after body install. We had the original cable but for some reason it was about an inch too short. So I ordered up a new one off Ebay (seller 4wheel.drive.hardware) for $16.99 This measured longer and was actually for our application. Excellent quality, fast sevice and great price. Now having a fiberglass body poses some problems when it comes to fastening hardware that normally got fastened to sheet metal. Fiberglass is thicker, so the firewall end of the cable would not snap into place. There is a modification plate made with a square hole for this purpose https://www.google.com/search?q=jeep+fiberglass+body+thottle+cable&oq=jeep+fiberglass+body+
thottle+cable&aqs=chrome..69i57.15162j0j7&sourceid=chrome&espv=
210&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=jeep+fiberglass+body+throttle+cable&tbm=shop&spd=0
I,m thinking, why can't you just cut out the square hole in the metal firewall that we kept? The curvature of the fiberglass body seemed to match the metal one pretty close. So I cut out the hole in no particular shape figuring I could trim it later. If layed against the inside of the firewall the curve matched perfectly. Shell Valley did a good job here. http://www.shellvalley.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category
_id=137/home_id=-1/mode=cat/cat137.htm
This mod might not work for other fiberglass bodies, but worth cheking into before making unnecessary puchases. The square hole was then traced and drilled out to a diameter matching the diameter behind the square on the cable. I tapped 4 holes for 10 - 32 thread and fastened the plate with stainless button head allen screws from the outside. Then pushed the cable into place through the round hole into the thinner square hole. The other end was also without problems due to alignment with the carb linkage. It appeared too low and was pulling down on the linkage and I couldn't figure out why until Jeffrey reminded me that we had used a 1" carb
spacer. Duh! That meant the throttle cable bracket had to be moved up the same amount. This could have been accomplished by putting a spacer between the intake and bracket, but wasn't pleased with how it would look. I optioned to cut and lengthen the bracket for a more factory look. The bracket was cut and a piece with matching strengthening rib was fabricated and welded into place, some grinding, filler and paint, along with some stainless mounting bolts and the problem was solved. Now the cable pulled the linkage straight.
thottle+cable&aqs=chrome..69i57.15162j0j7&sourceid=chrome&espv=
210&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=jeep+fiberglass+body+throttle+cable&tbm=shop&spd=0
I,m thinking, why can't you just cut out the square hole in the metal firewall that we kept? The curvature of the fiberglass body seemed to match the metal one pretty close. So I cut out the hole in no particular shape figuring I could trim it later. If layed against the inside of the firewall the curve matched perfectly. Shell Valley did a good job here. http://www.shellvalley.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category
_id=137/home_id=-1/mode=cat/cat137.htm
This mod might not work for other fiberglass bodies, but worth cheking into before making unnecessary puchases. The square hole was then traced and drilled out to a diameter matching the diameter behind the square on the cable. I tapped 4 holes for 10 - 32 thread and fastened the plate with stainless button head allen screws from the outside. Then pushed the cable into place through the round hole into the thinner square hole. The other end was also without problems due to alignment with the carb linkage. It appeared too low and was pulling down on the linkage and I couldn't figure out why until Jeffrey reminded me that we had used a 1" carb
spacer. Duh! That meant the throttle cable bracket had to be moved up the same amount. This could have been accomplished by putting a spacer between the intake and bracket, but wasn't pleased with how it would look. I optioned to cut and lengthen the bracket for a more factory look. The bracket was cut and a piece with matching strengthening rib was fabricated and welded into place, some grinding, filler and paint, along with some stainless mounting bolts and the problem was solved. Now the cable pulled the linkage straight.
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