Made a killer buy on a Wrangler windshield frame from our local u-pull. http://www.joesusedautoparts.com/EZPull.html Jeffrey had known about it weeks ago so we weren't sure if it would still be there, but it was. The reason it was still there was because nobody could remove it. Damn rusted torx head bolts. As we got to it 2 other guys came walking up to it with intention of trying to remove it. They had tried the previous day and after stripping the heads on all the torx bolts gave up but

came back with no additional tools. Don't know what they were thinking. Anyhow, eye contact was made and they decided to leave it. I guess we had a bigger tool box. We had brought along a Snap-On impact driver http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=631500&group_ID=674820 knowing it was going to be a problem, but with the stripped heads we had no success. The windshield was surprisingly rust free with a very nice tinted glass, wiper motor and sunvisor brackets. On closer inspection we noticed that the hinges were almost broken off from a previous owner trying to fold it

down with rusted fast hinge pins. So there was no   use in trying to save them. The only other problem was that the roll bar extension pipes fastened to the windshield frame were also attached with stripped torx. If we could get them off then we could finish braking off the hinges and be on our way. Just so happened I brought along a saw. Not a hack saw but a vintage Allway saw. This used to be my grandfather's but comes in handy but was small for the task in hand. Where there is a will there is a

way. Well needless to say we took turns sawing our way through the bars. It was cold that day but we were both sweating. Total cost was $55.00. Got it home and applied heat to the bolt heads and they turned right out. Removed the wiper motor and bench tested it, works nice and quiet. Sunvisor brackets came off then the glass. The Wrangler glass is glued in unlike the CJ's that use a rubber seal. This is one reason the Wrangler frames are less prone to rust. Removal of the glass, recommended by a glass

installer was to use a wire, or they would do it for $45.00 Nah, we can do this. Started out with a utility knife but was taking too long so I broke out the trusty oscillating multi function tool from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-60428.html Held flat against the glass and cut into the adhesive made short work of it. We had one complete hinge from the CJ and a lower half along with the two upper half's from the Wrangler.

A complete pair was needed for mock up so we clamped the two broken half's on the welding table, using a pair of dividers made sure the holes spacing was correct then Jeffrey welded it together. Positioning the assembly in place on the fiberglass cowl revealed that the cowl width was about .330 narrower than the steel body. 2 shims were milled to .165 to fit behind the hinges to take up that space and tack welded to the hinges. A 1/4" thick strip of wood was layed between the cowl and bottom of

the windshield frame to take up the space for the rubber gasket then clamped into position for drilling. Before drilling we will hang the doors and set the top on to make sure everything lines up. A door was temporarily held in place and found fitment to body was dead on. An attaboy to Shell Valley. http://www.shellvalley.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=8/mode=cat/cat8.htm A steel windshield frame was chosen for the strength. Have heard some horror stories about glass popping out when using a soft top. In fact Shell Valley will caution you on this.