First off I would like to thank all the individuals that posted tech articles on using the Ford Contour dual electric fan on the jeep-cj forum http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/ and the jeep forum http://www.jeepforum.com/ Both have been invaluable in the build of this CJ7 and would have been a struggle otherwise. I am including lots of pics, so any questions are welcome. The radiator is an all aluminum Champion 3 row core, model CC583B. This thing is a work of art, quality all the way. Purchased through Ebay store. http://stores.ebay.com/theradiatorgalaxy/ Fast shipping and great packaging. This fits with no

modification at all. We added elbows for the transmission cooler lines for a direct route to the hard lines. 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum strips were added between the radiator mounting flange and the grille to give some clearance to the upper tank so it would not rub on the grille. Just a precautionary measure. These strips would later become advantageous in securing the mounting blocks for the electric fan. OK the fan. 1998 Ford Contour 4 cylinder dual electric with shroud. Cost us $20.00 at a local u-pull.
http://www.joesusedautoparts.com/GrebleUP.html I can not begin to describe how perfect this fits the radiator. Again, thank you forums. Fits in between

the tanks and the mounting flanges like it was engineered for it. We trimmed some relief for the welds on the sides where the flange is stitched welded to the core. Once that was seated, measurements were taken to utilize the factory Ford mounting tabs. This is a slightly different approach from what we have seen, some fastening through the core, but this way was chosen for ease of install and future replacement. A word on replacement of junkyard parts, especially with newer cars. It is always good to document the VIN off the car the part was taken. Alot of times you inquire about a part at the parts store or dealer and they want the

VIN due to mid year changes. This way you have a better chance of getting the correct part. Jeffrey milled mounts from aluminum blocks then the wedge for the lower mounts cut in on a bandsaw. I know everybody doesn't have access to a mill, but there is no reason these could not have been fabricated with just a saw. 1/4 - 20 threads were tapped so they could be mounted to the radiator flange through the previous mentioned 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum strips that were countersunk for 1/4 - 20 flat head stainless screws. The upper blocks have a 5/16 stainless stud installed in them. Once these blocks are mounted to the flange the radiator can then be mounted to the

grille. The fan assembly can then be mounted simply by lowering the bottom tabs into the the lower wedges then slide the upper mounts into position over the studs and secured with stainless washers and nuts. We will later switch to a stainless nylon lock nut to prevent having to tighten too excessively on the plastic tabs and then won't have to worry about them working loose. There is about 1/2" clearance between the acorn nuts on the water pump pulley (we could have more if using regular nuts). Plus the dual fan gives more clearance than a single fan would have. On the transmission cooler lines, we chose to go with barbed nipples and plain hose

rather than have special hoses with crimped fittings. These always seem to leak and this way it is just a simple matter of cutting a length of hose and clamping it. Jeffrey has some decisions to make on fan controllers, there are plenty of options out there.